GJ's Journey: October 2011

Sitting on the shores of Lake Iznik, ancient Nicaea, gives little clues to it being a capital of the Byzantine Empire. It is, however, more important for the legacy of producing, in the 16th century, the finest ceramics ever made in the Ottoman world. Nicaea first reached prominence in AD325 when Emperor Constantine chose it as the location of the first Ecumenical Council of the Christian Church. The meeting produced the Nicene Creed as well as answers to numerous Christian related questions such as the date of Easter and that "Jesus Christ to be of one substance with God the Father". The Seljuks took Nicaea in 1081, changing its name to Iznik. The Ottomans captured Iznik in 1331 and incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire. The town still retains its original layout, surrounded by town walls, two main streets and gated entries.

The Haghia Sophia, one of the towns oldest surviving monuments, stands at the intersection of the two main streets. This current building was erected in 1065 after the original was destroyed in an earthquake. The 7th Ecumenical Council was held in this Church in 787 BC. After the Ottomans took over, the basilica shaped church was turned into a mosque and a minaret added.


Well preserved mosaic flooring

Beautiful frescoes.

The oldest Ottoman mosque in Iznik,it is square and has no minaret.

Esrefzade Rumi Camii, named after a famed mystic and poet.

Tomb of Rumi

Very modern ablutions "fountain", across the street from the mosque.


Beautiful architectural interests

The ceramic art of Iznik flourished in the 13th century when Seljuk architecture was at it's peak, being mostly dark blue and white. The Ottomans entered in the 14th century and continued the Seljuk tradition, but added greens and turquoise. Ceramics from these two eras can be seen around Turkey in mosques, madrases, tombs and palaces.

Iznik is also the center of ceramic works which contain the floral motifs of tulips, hyacinth, pomegranate and carnation. These colors are mostly blue, turquoise, green and red. The ceramic art began to die out in the 18th century and it was thought the the master craftsmen had taken their secrets to the grave. In the 1990's the Iznik Foundation was set up to re-learn the technique. The excavation of old kiln sites yielded much information that enabled them to resurrect the 400 year old tile "recipe" and commercial production was begun again in 1995.

The same art work appears on the garbage cans of the city as we are out and about.

A crate making facility tucked against one of the walls of the city and some of the employees, enjoying a chat...in person and on the phone.

Tombs of Candarli Halil Pasha and sons. He was a vizier under Murad II and Mehmet the Conqueror but was put to death after the conquest of Istanbul.

The Green Mosque, the symbol of Iznik, takes its name from the turquoise and blue colored tiles and bricks of its minaret. Built between 1378 and 1392, it is the most magnificent of the single domed mosques of the Ottoman Period.


Entrance to the gardens surrounding the mosque

The women's prayer area

Iznik Museum, once the Nilufer Hatun Imareti, a 14th century hospice for traveling dervishes.

Sheik Kudbettin Mosque and Tomb, an important mystic scientist of the 15th century.

Nearly all of the ancient city walls can be seen in some form or fashion with an occasional arch or Greek inscription, tower or storage room. Two of the 4 gates survive with Roman arches between their inner and outer parts, inscriptions in Greek and Latin commemorating the visit of Emperor Hadrian, and remains of marble reliefs. The better of the two is the western or Lefke Gate.